The Fastest Slow Guy You Know: Short Hikes for Sunday

Friday, November 17, 2017

Short Hikes for Sunday - Oakland Tribune 26 Aug 1923, Sun

Oakland Tribune (Oakland, California)26 Aug 1923, Sun Page 83

Short Hikes for Sunday

Grizzly Peak, Fish Ranch Road, Flagstaff Hill, Dimond Canyon Are Some of the Many Trips That Can Be Made by Eastbay Residents in Just a Few Afternoon Hours

[This article came with a map, which I've saved and georeferenced. You can view it georeferenced (overlaid and aligned) here. I'll add comments below. - MF]

[See also "The Hiker's Paradise", by Louis Allen - Oakland Tribune 07 May 1922, Sun Page 77]

By Prof. J. Walker

[I wonder if "Professor J. Walker" was a funny nom de plume, "jay walker". He, or his moniker wrote several hiking articles over the years for the Tribune. Most were boring recitations of hiking clubs and their events. This one stands out. - MF]

Comparatively few persons in the San Francisco bay district realize that in no other district in the world may one enjoy such diversified hikes. The Eastbay country, particularly, is blessed in the accessibility of natural hiking territory. Our hills and canyons are literally at our back doors, whereas San Franciscans have to cross the ferry to reach their particular paradise of hikes - Marin county. We on the east side of the bay need only jump into our hiking togs and hoof it for any number of inviting trails. Or, if desired, we may take electrics to a more distant portion of the Berkeley or Contra Costa hills.

The various hiking clubs - the Contra Costa Hills, the Berkeley Hiking, the Sierra and Alpine clubs - all carry out weekly hikes, most of them designed for Sunday and occupying practically the entire day. These hikes are enjoyable affairs, full of interest for novice as well as the more seasoned, but there would seem to be room for information and suggestions along the line of shorter hikes, hikes such as might be taken during three or four hours of a busy Sunday. To fill this want the writer has prepared a number of short trips designed for those who cannot give the entire day to hiking, but who are imbued with the commendable desire to see more of this hikers' paradise than is vouchsafed by auto tour or other means of transportation.

GRIZZLY PEAK.

Because a map shows at a glance what hundreds of written words might not so surely make clear, let us look at the map prepared for this article. Beginning at the northern, or more exactly the left side of the map and moving toward the right, we come first to the trail to Grizzly Peak. There is nothing original about Grizzly Peak as a climb, and for those who seriously desire to try these short hikes, we suggest that you take this one after you have tried one or two others that offer less climbing and which would be less tiring to the novice.

Grizzly Peak is one of the most hiked over peaks in the world. Newcomers to the bay district, whose eyes wander to the high spots, always hit the trail for Grizzly. It is the highest peak in the Berkeley hills and commands a view unsurpassed in the Eastbay short of Mt. Diablo.

[This route doesn't seem to match any existing road or trail. It seems to go straight up the hill, crossing what's now Centennial Drive and Grizzly Peak Boulevard. (Interestingly, I found an old map that called it "Grisle Peak".) - MF]

To reach Grizzly, start out back of the Greek Theater at the University of California, following up the trail which winds in gentle grade around 'C' hill. The trail will be particularly interesting this summer because it passes close to the great stadium of the university now under construction at the mouth of Strawberry Canyon. While on route to Grizzly, all who have not visited the big 'C' will of course do so, the main trail passing within a hundred yards of the big letter, but on the east side of the hill. From this point the trail crosses open meadow and up along fenced eucalyptus trees, turning right to the top of the slight rise and following the unmistakable trail around Grizzly Peak, thence by either of two routes plainly sign-boarded to the top of Grizzly itself.

[I'm pretty sure the loop trail around Grizzly Peak is the same one that's still there. I've been on it. - MF]

If the day is clear, and it usually is with a north wind blowing, you will be rewarded with a view that is without a peer in the world. And if you make the hike late in the afternoon of a moonlight period, waiting for the sun to go down and the lights of the cities around the bay to be turned on, you will be given the surprise of your life in the amazing lighting effects produced by the thousands of street lamps fringing the bay on all sides. People who have not looked down upon the bay cities at night have missed a thrill comparable to the first glimpse into the Grand Canyon of Arizona.

FISH RANCH ROAD.

Another less known jaunt for the hiker with little time to devote to the sport is a tramp up Fish Ranch road to the divide between Alameda and Contra Costa counties, marked by a picturesque boundary post by the side of the road.

[What's called "Fish Ranch Road" is now "Claremont Ave." This makes sense, because if you take Claremont all the way to the top, then over the east side it's Fish Ranch Rd. Why is it called Fish Ranch Road? It used to go to the Oakland Trout Farm! Read more in this guide book from 1887, "Hittell's Hand-book of Pacific Coast Travel" - MF]

From the end of the car lines in front of Hotel Claremont walk either around the north end of the hotel by the road or through the beautiful grounds to the road which leads up the canyon by John Garber Park. This road is little used by automobile or wagons, except by the few ranchers in the canyon, hence it offers distinctive advantages to the hiker. The nature-loving hiker will note the wild flowers which seasonably visit this pretty canyon. At a point about a mile from the hotel and on the left side of the road may be seen excellent examples of rock strata up-ended and fantastically twisted-a lesson in geology that anyone may read.

In late summer the creek is almost dry, but in spring and early summer the music of purling waters adds to the beauties of this trip. At the head of the canyon the road makes a wide sweep and then pushes up to the top of a pass where further signs of the old road have been almost obliterated. Years ago this road wound down the east side of the ridge into Contra Costa county, Since the Tunnel road came into use this old road declined and finally was abandoned.

[I guess the Tunnel Road is now Old Tunnel Road. - MF]

The armored boundary post at the pass will be found interesting. Incidentally, the hiker will get a view of vandalism such as is only too general throughout the hills, irresponsible parties with guns have used the boundary post as a test for their marksmanship, the plates being madly pockmarked with bullet scars.

FLAG STAFF HILL.

The Fish Ranch road hike may be termed a canyon hike. The Flag Staff Hill hike is distinctly a hill hike. It may be started either by climbing up from Fish Ranch road through John Garber Park, or by taking the flight of stone steps about a hundred yards southeast of Hotel Claremont, then crossing the road and following up over the ridge along the north side of the row of eucalyptus trees. Both routes come out at the same spot on the summit of the first hill back of the hotel.

[This is another case where modern roads don't fit the trails described, however Flag Staff Hill seems to be about where the radio tower for KPFA is. - MF]

From that point the trail keeps on the top of the ridge, gradually working upward until the trail enters dense pine woods. It then bears northeasterly and runs into a contour trail that almost circles the conical peak at this point, which is known to old-timers as Flag Staff Hill, because for a number of years a rude flag staff was maintained at the summit. From the point of intersection of these two trails the climber can scramble up over the bald top of the peak from which a remarkable view is afforded, particularly of the skyline boulevard and its constant parade of autos going up and returning from the tunnel. This peak is not so high as Grizzly and the view is not so extensive, but for views down into Claremont Canyon and the busy skyline boulevard it is unsurpassed in our hill country.

LAKE TEMESCAL.

Water is always an attraction to the hiker. Lake Temescal is close in and easily accessible from the College avenue cars. A pretty walk to the lake is from the intersection of Chabot road and College avenue. The road follows up the canyon on the north side and touches Lake Temescal, one of the reservoirs of the Eastbay Water Company. The hiker may either walk around the lake and return the way he came, or cross the dam at the western end of the lake and climb the bluff at the south end of the dam, pushing along Contra Costa road at the top of the bluff to the intersection of McAdam and Park roads, were the Rockridge car may be taken which connects with College avenue cars at Rockridge.

[I don't know what McAdam or Park roads were, but this map has the "Rockridge car" being available at about the intersection of Broadway Terrace and Buena Vista, which makes sense. Contra Costa Road does still exist, but it dead-ends before reaching Broadway Terrace. - MF]

SKYLINE BOULEVARD.

Many residents evidently believe that a hike to the top of the ridge back of Oakland, which carries the skyline boulevard, is an all-day affair. It is far from that if the hiker will only take advantage of the Montclair bus. Key Route cars running into Piedmont give transfers to the Montclair bus, which runs through the Piedmont hills to Montclair. Before reaching Montclair, where the route passes the old Thorn road, the hiker should leave the bus and start up this famous old road. Keeping always to the right, the hiker will find this tramp one of the most interesting in the group of walks, passing as he does the newly settled hillsides in the Pinehurst district.

[The old Thorn road is now called Thornhill Road. - MF]

The only stiff climb of the trip comes at the close of the journey where the road pushes up abruptly and crosses the skyline boulevard. Many old-timers remember when this was the only road leading out of Oakland to Moraga Valley. It was much used in the early days, but has fallen into disuse since the building of the Tunnel road, the skyline boulevard and the road down into Redwood Canyon by way of Shepard Canyon, From the skyline boulevard and Thorn road intersection on clear days a fine view of Diablo is obtained.

[Interesting, if you follow Thornhill up (which becomes Sobrante Road, and then dead-ends) and over Skyline, you are in Huckleberry Botanical Preserve. There is a trail "Huckleberry Path" which does connect that intersection to the first big switchback of Pinehurst Road. Pinehurst Road does get you to Moraga valley. The road down into Redwood Canyon by way of Shepard Canyon would be what's now called the Stream Trail in Redwood Regional Park. Hm! - MF]

SHEPARD CANYON.

[It's now called Shepherd Canyon. I've found both spellings, in searches of the Oakland Tribune archives, sometimes both on the same page. Note: "the Moraga road" is now Moraga Ave. Makes sense that you would take "the Moraga road" up and over the hill, down into Moraga. My theory is that Stream Trail is the old road. The "county road which swings parallel with the Sacramento Short Line" is now Highway 13. - MF]

The trip into Shepard Canyon will not offer extended views, because the time limit would not permit of reaching higher elevations and unobstructed views, which would necessitate climbing through to the ridge on the west side of Redwood Canyon, but the canyon is one of the wildest in the Contra Costa hills. Hikers may make this trip either from the end of the Montclair bus line or from the end of the Park Boulevard (E) car line. If from the bus, the hiker should strike along the Moraga road to the county road which swings parallel with the Sacramento Short Line and enters Shepard canyon in an easterly direction. The road penetrates deep into the canyon and finally pinches out into a good trail which follows along Shepard creek. At the point where the trail leaves the creek and pushes up over a sharp rise would be a good spot for the hiker limited by time to rest and later turn back. At this point he is deep within the canyon with heavily wooded hills on all sides. Probably he will remark on the suddenness with which one may get away from all signs of habitations in these fine hills back of the Eastbay cities. And yet at this point he is less than four miles in an air line from Oakland's city hall. Perhaps while resting deep in this woodsy spot the hiker will hear the roar of the Sacramento Short Line electric trains as they emerge from the mouth of the tunnel close at hand and glide swiftly through Montclair and past Temescal Lake into the city.

THE HIGHTS.

Not a few people are under the impression that an auto is necessary to make the trip to "The Hights," Joaquin Miller's former home, now a city park, where Juanita Miller and the poet's widow still reside. As a matter of fact, this trip may be made in from three to four hours, taking the bus to Montclair from Piedmont station, then walking southeasterly on Moraga road to Park boulevard, thence taking the Joaquin Miller road, keeping always to the left until reaching "The Hights." The return trip may be made either by way of Park boulevard or Lincoln avenue, which connects with the Hopkins street cars for Oakland. If returning via Park boulevard the hiker should retrace his steps to the intersection of Joaquin Miller road and Park boulevard, then follow down Park boulevard about a mile westerly to the end of the car line. If returning by Lincoln avenue proceed along Joaquin Miller road and the County road extension of Lincoln avenue. Following down Lincoln avenue to Hopkins street, the hiker will find cars running into the heart of Oakland's business district.

[This 1906 map gives a sense of what the roads looked like near "The Hights". What's interesting to me is that something like the Sequoia Bayview trail in Joaquin Miller Park was once a transverse road, and something like Cinderella trail was also a road. Also, notice how the next section's "Abandoned Road" is called out. Hopkins is now Macarthur Blvd. We live across the road from Joaquin Miller Park. - MF]

ABANDONED ROAD.

[This. This is why I've transcribed and researched this article. I ride home from work on this old road, now called Bridgeview Trail, most nights. It's at the end of Bridgeview Drive. I can imagine riding a bicycle up it from Hugh Dimond's old place. It's obviously the remains of an old macadam road, now mostly dirt, sliding off the side of the hill, almost gone in places. I've always wondered about it. (Edit: I believe it was for the delivery of water from Caspar Hopkins' dam on upper Sausal Creek to the reservoir of his Sausal Creek Water Company near the current Waterhouse Road.) Now I'm more curious about it. It doesn't sound like it's changed much in 94 years, except that now there's a municipal driving (golf) range between it and Park Blvd, with a bar that closes at ten. Park Boulevard used to be called Fourth Avenue. Here are some photos of it now, from my bicycle commute. - MF]

Many residents of the Dimond district know of Dimond Park, with its historic adobe hut built by Captain Dimond a hundred years ago. That little park is well known, but comparatively few know that a formerly paved highway, now abandoned, used to extend from a point just east of Captain Dimond's hut and was the oldtime means of access to the region now known as Montclair, the Joaquin Miller road and Shepard Canyon. The building of Park boulevard on the north side of the canyon sounded the doom of the old road which Joaquin Miller himself helped to build. But today that abandoned road with its crazy patchwork paving, badly overgrown with brush and weeds, offers one of the finest hikes into the hills. It winds picturesquely along the canyon at first just below Park boulevard, then crosses the creek and gradually rises on the south side of the canyon, reaching in a half mile a commanding view toward the Golden Gate. The old road then winds around the ridge and terminates suddenly where private ownership has erected a barbed wire fence. However, it is easy to climb down into Palo Seco creek and then up to the Joaquin Miller road. This trip is particularly advised for the end of the day, so that the hiker may be returning at about sunset. Then from the high point of the trail opposite the stone quarry on Park boulevard one gains a vista of color, particularly in early sumner when the sun drops into the Golden gate.

From "A Short History of Dimond Canyon and Sausal Creek" by "Eleanor Dunn (longtime Friend and Acting Treasurer), from The Montclarion, March 24, 1998"

In 1867, Hugh Dimond purchased the canyon. Before he came to settle the land, Caspar Hopkins, another early settler of the Fruitvale District, formed the Sausal Creek Water Company. Hopkins built a dam at the upper end of the canyon near current Highway 13. He piped the water down the hill along the East Side of the creek to a reservoir at what is currently Waterhouse Road. The water was used to supply the Fruitvale District and for a short time all of East Oakland after the company was bought by Anthony Chabot’s Contra Costa Water Company. The reservoir later became part of the East Bay Water Company and remained until the early 1920’s. Maps of this early period show a road passing the reservoir along the current Waterhouse Road, and extending up toward the dam in the direction of Bridgeview Drive along what is currently the Upper Dimond Canyon Trail.

More about the old road:

The "quarry" mentioned above was the Bates & Borland quarry. Searching for that in newspaper archives yields some interesting stories, like this crazy and sad story involving stolen dynamite, bombs, and Piedmont residents using eminent domain to force a "negro" resident to leave Piedmont.

I did find this, it's a good read. He mentions his father's business, Bates & Borland quarry on page 3.

I was hoping to find the quarry's location, but I'm fairly sure it's what's now the driving range between Bridgeway and Park, at the top of the canyon. This is the entrance to the driving range:

The Fastest Slow Guy You Know