Arroyo Seco, Indians Road, Fort Hunter Liggett, King City

My friend Sol wrote:
And just throwing this out there - a bucket list ride for me is to do the Indians Road loop around the third week of March, which should be a stunningly beautiful time of year. Anyone want to join?
This ride starts pretty close to Pinnacles, in my observation you can count on the 3rd week of March having spectacular wildflowers and green scenery at Pnnacles and in the surrounding areas.
That route was imaginary, I think. Or the guy that rode it had some magical skills. Sometimes imagination makes for a dream ride. That ride had dream qualities. The light all day - I rode from sun-up to sun-down, and Peter and Sol rode until way later - was like the light in a Mati Klarwein painting. Look him up, you'll see what I mean; intense, bright, otherworldly. The Ventana Wilderness feels surreal.

I copied that route, but had it start at Arroyo Seco, as we agreed with Shea's suggestion that it would make a better start point than the town of Greenfield. This was the route we followed.

After a few remembered, missed items requiring me to turn around, I was on the road around 5PM with groceries bought, and I fought through traffic to get to Arroyo Seco around 10PM, right after Sol got there. My campsite only had one parking spot. Sol secured a group spot that was free. Patrick, Shea and Peter got there in quick succession. They had night time plans, mine involved sleep. Sleep is precious to me. I don't get enough of it, and Friday would be a big day. I took a sleep pill (diphenhydramine) and went to bed. I guess they had a little night ride with foxes and shooting stars. Kinda envious, but sleep is good.


Up at 6, to their site as dawn broke, coffee and granola/yogurt/blueberries, watching vultures circle overhead. Jokes and prep. Sol shared his delicious rice cakes and Aussie Bites cookies. I took some of each. Thank you, Sol. Somehow we'd all brought Patagonia hooded Capilene sun shirts. Peter brought two, and lent one to Patrick. With the hoods on, we looked like the spermatozoa in the Woody Allen movie, Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Sex. Sol wanted to be riding by 7, we were rolling just after 8, after paying for extra cars. In hindsight, that 7AM start would have been good. It was already warm, and the forecasted high for our afternoon pass through King City was 92º.

The first thing we saw, leaving Arroyo Seco Campground

PAVEMENT ENDS

The gorge




We immediately began climbing, and very quickly the climb was dirt. The first glimpses of the green, rugged peaks of the Ventana wilderness in dawn's early light were astounding. I used to live in Pacific Grove, thirty plus years ago, and I'd ride my road bike south to Big Sur, then up a dead-end road called Palo Colorado, where I'd look into this range with wonder and curiosity. I'd never seen it from the eastern side, where we were riding. It's stunning. We were surprised to be passed by a car, and soon caught up to the occupant, Betsy, who was preparing for a multi-day trail work session. She was cheerful and encouraging. I bet she has a good life, volunteering and working in that beautiful place.

Betsy, telling us about Ventana Wilderness Alliance

It's about 2400' to the first high point, which is just under 3000' elevation, and looking across the range at it, it's a straight line cut into rugged peaks that extend west, toward the ocean. We passed springs and running water, even a grotto filled with ferns and a dripping waterfall into a metal bowl, just after a landslide. The sage, like many other plants, was fresh and vibrant, producing aromatic smells that set a tone for the place and time; five senses working overtime.



Look closely, you can see Indians road cutting a straight line across this range of mountains



Sol, surveying a kingdom

Santa Lucia trailhead


There were springs and running water at multiple points along the climb.


Spot the human

Photo by Peter

bluewitch nightshade - what an '80s metal band name 


What would have made this ride perfect would be a glimpse of the Pacific, but we never got that; just mountains after mountains. I was happy. Peter had a self-ejecting seat bag, and during one of its episodes we stopped at a creek crossing with a swimming hole. Sol and Shea went for a dip, Patrick and I adjusted headsets and Peter did a bit of fixing and adjusting. It was here that Peter realized he'd forgotten his ID. We thought we'd need them to get through Fort Hunter Liggett, and it created some tension, but the happiness of the views and the company and the ride outweighed it.. At the top of the climb we filtered water and dunked sun shirts in another (the same?) creek, then traversed a few peaks to a big rock outcropping, where we took pictures and hung out for a bit, before enacting a hard-style handshake to commemorate the parting of ways.

What looked at first like a giant puddle was a giant hole in the trail.

Shea and Patrick, thinking about continuing further. We went to that rock outcrop in the middle left.





I think this is black sage. It smelled amazing. We rode through a lot of it.


Golden-yarrow











Photo by Peter

STOKED on Nerd Clusters, by Patrick


Tree-poppy

Hard-style handshake at the parting of the ways, Shea and Patrick went back, to the left, and Peter, Sol and I continued on, to the right

She and Patrick went back down Indians Road the way they'd come, while we continued down the western side. It was amazing; the same long gradient. We heard and saw a big rattlesnake, stopped to filter water and dunk sun shirts. 



A United States Tobacco Company snuff can lid and a YACC 81 imprint at the Escondido Campgrounds - we looked briefly for water, didn't see a source, gave up. I guess there is water, there. 

Chaparral whitethorn





Peter's pack ejected again. I lent him a strap and that, plus some creative use of the existing straps kept it secured for the rest of the day. We transitioned to rough pavement, still descending, through some lovely country that looked out of a Steinbeck novel; oaks and grasslands, rock outcroppings, fields of lupine and poppies. The smell of the lupine - kind of sickly sweet - was intense. 










gray and blue riding hoods







Leaving Los Padres




one of many water crossings


It was so hot. Dunking sun hoodies became a regular practice. Standing in running, cool water felt great.

Fields of lupine


After some more water crossings we came to a fork in the road. The route we were following, which Sol had found on ridewithgps years ago, went left on Red Grade Road, (named "Milpitas Road" on google maps) but the sign on that road said we'd need a permit, and that travel was otherwise forbidden, and other military warnings. It was dirt, and went up a slope, while the road we'd been on, Del Venturi was open, paved and downhill. We elected to leave the route we'd been following and stay on Del Venturi road. 


This was to be the pattern of our continued ride; each time we attempted to return to the route, we found closed roads, or forbidding military signs. At one point, in the mid-day heat and blazing sun, Peter wanted to stop and snack. There was zero shade, bleached white macadam road, chain-link fence and distant views of the Julia Morgan-designed Hacienda and the Mission San Antonio de Padua. It seemed irrational; we should have done this in the shade, and after we'd figured out where we were going. So we stopped and snacked and baked in the sun. I think this was the beginning of trouble, for Peter.

The Hacienda

Fort Hunter Liggett architecture

10 MPH WHEN TROOPS PRESENT

more Hacienda

Sol and Peter out in the noon-day sun

Another closed road

Mission San Antonio de Padua


A motorcycle rider went by. I flagged him, and he stopped. I asked if he could could go left on Mission Creek Road. He didn't know, and he went left. Later he passed us, coming back; apparently not. Sol talked to a woman exiting the Mission, and she told us we should go right on Mission Road, then left on Jolon Road to King City, so we did. We passed by some training facilities, an old tank and some road-side informational signage, before leaving Fort Hunter Liggett.








Lt. Col Hunter Liggett

two forms of wheeled transport

We went left.

Sol and Peter, in the distance.

It was hot, the shoulder was narrow, the road was rough and the cars were fast and unforgiving. Sol and Peter were faster than me. I'd been the turtle all day. I don't think Sol likes cars and traffic, so he took off. So did Peter. But then I caught Peter, and he said he needed a shade break. He was looking rough, like heat stroke rough. So I continued on, slowly approaching Sol, who was slowing. I told him that Peter was feeling bad, so we pulled into a shady section of road and waited for Peter. Peter needed a fairly significant break, so we loitered on the side of the road, snacking and giving Peter time to recover. We were all getting low on water - I had something like four liters of capacity, in various very-big and just-big water bottles, and I think Sol and Peter each had a bit less. I'm also much bigger than they are, so it was proportional. I had electrolytes and carbohydrates in my water bottles, and had been filtering and filling at most of our opportunities. I am sure I had drunk more than eight liters at that point. As we were taking our shade break, I had a half bottle left. 



We were talking about getting to King City, getting Mexican food in an air-conditioned restaurant. I wanted a Mexican Coke. I was beginning to fantasize about it. We got to King City, took a rough, little bike path into town, and began our search for this Mexican restaurant. It was 96º. We found El Taquero Deli, and while we might have found one with AC, we settled for one that was just a bit less hot inside than outside, but with good food, aguas frescas, friendly staff and Mexican Cokes. I got a litro of sandía (water melon) with lime and tajín on it, and we shared it. I got a carne asada burrito, the biggest cucumber lemonade and a Mexican Coke. Sol and Peter got tacos and aguas frescas. Peter could only eat one of two tacos; he was still feeling bad. I texted the group text, asking Patrick or Shea if they wanted to pick us up in King City. We all had popsicles, then set back out again. It was around 6PM at this point. We were way behind whatever schedule I'd imagined.

Photo by Peter

At a 7-11, I bought two gallons of water and briefly enjoyed the AC interior. We filled our seven (?) bottles with the two gallons, not even filling all of them completely. I put the last bit of drink powder I had in three of mine, and a Gu electrolyte tablet in each as well. I handed out electrolyte tablets to Peter and Sol as well. There was a guy who pulled up in a pickup truck. I hailed him, and politely offered him $100 cash if he'd take us to Arroyo Seco Campground, 25 miles away. He was loading a case of beer into his pickup. He considered, then said that it would probably not be worth it, as it would just cover his gas. Our mad king had just launched a war in Iran, and because no oil was getting through the Strait of Hormuz fuel prices had shot up to over $7 / gallon. He had a good point. We calculated that, if his truck got 15mpg, it would cost him $30 in fuel just to drive us to the campground and back. We began the return to the route, followed it onto private agricultural property and begin riding northwest along agricultural roads. We had to hop, or open a few gates, bushwack through an arroyo seco. Patrick called me. He'd left the campground, intended to go home and when he got to cell, he saw my message. He asked me where I was and I sent him my location in GPS coordinates. He informed me that I was in a field, and I concurred. I told him we were following this route, and we hoped to get to asphalt, but we didn't know when we would. He was a bit frustrated with that, and he was driving a car with no bike racks and no room for people. I told him I'd see him back in our home area, and said goodbye. So it was unexpected that, when we finally exited the farm roads to asphalt on Central Avenue, there was Patrick. He couldn't transport any of us, but we got a chance to catch up and here how his afternoon went. Sounded much better than ours; an excellent descent down Indians Road and river time at Arryo Seco, plus campground hangout time with Shea.



Photo by Peter



Patrick, offering trail stories, if not a ride

Shea called, he had also just gotten the message, and offered us a pickup. At this point, Peter was feeling better and they both wanted to finish the ride, but I said yes, I'd like a ride back to camp. We all had lights, food, water, and we all three could have returned, but I'd been recruited to work the next morning 190 miles away, at Exchequer Mountain Bike Park, at the second race of the NorCal Season. I had to be ready to work at 6AM the next morning, and as it was already 7PM, with 25 miles to go, I was ready to get on the road. So I got in Shea's car, he drove me back to camp. We saw and shooed a California King Snake off the road, I had a make-shift shower with my solar shower, after finding all the camp showers broken, then I drove across California, getting to Exchequer at 1AM.



We ended up doing a very different ride from the planned route:


My ride:
Peter's ride:

I would do this ride again, but maybe up and over Indians Road, then back. Or Indians Road - Nacimiento Ferguson Road to the coast, and maybe back. Logistics would require an out-and-back, or a loop, or a car or train on the other end. I was inspired by Henry Wildeberry and Ms. Cool's Santa Lucia bicycle tour:

Gear

I rode my 2017 Falconer gravel bike, set up pretty standard:
  • 42t front ring
  • 10-50 rear 12spd cassette
  • 160mm rotors, SRAM Rival AXS hydraulic disc brakes
  • 700 x 45mm Panaracer GravelKing X1 Plus tires, about 30 / 28 psi, tubeless
  • ENVE M90 HV / Chris King wheels
Only changes were:
  • Tailfin 5.3L Half Frame bag
  • Stainless Dragonfly from Botched Bikes USA
    • This was a first time use for me. It uses a bottle mount to provide a pair of cantilevered bottle mounts, forward of the regular location. I'd bought it for bikepacking trips, to have more, easily reachable water for hot days, with my frame bag installed, blocking the normal water bottle location on the top of the downtube. I hadn't tried it before this trip. Since I'd have the Tailfin frame bag installed, I figured this would work. I installed it the morning of the ride, at camp. The cute little green anodized bolts are super soft aluminum, and I rounded one, tightening it with a PB Swiss allen. I didn't put loctite on them, and by the end of the ride, three of the four button-head green allen bolts were loose. I'll replace them with stainless bolts, and use loctite. There's a titanium version. Hmm...
  • In the frame bag
    • Food, water filter, sunblock, pump & multi-tool, wallet, keys, hydration powder, electrolyte tablets

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